What a night this has been - problem after problem seems to keep occurring with this engine, and I'm getting seriously frustrated at the number of snapped bolts due to rusted - seized up bolts. So goal today was to remove the cylinder head in preparation for the new one. However before that I wanted to remove the oil cooler so I could get behind it, and clean up the engine with a wire brush and make it look a little nicer and also check out the oil coolers insides and make sure thats all according to spec.
The first challenge - the oil filter. That thing just wasn't coming off using the standard oil filter wrenches, band wrench - so considering it's going to be thrown away anyway, I ended up piercing it right through with a tyre spoon and then using that as a wrench to eventually get it off. That was way tighter than it should have been!
The next challenge - the Oil Cooler. This thing again just wasn't coming off and that was because of yet another bolt I ended up snapping due to rusting / seizure inside. So I try multiple attempts to get this thing out.
I even trying welding on an old pair of pliers onto the snapped bolt and using that as a wrench, but no that ended up just shearing off another portion of the bolt leaving me with an even smaller bolt stud to work with.
So at this point, I conclude that the oil cooler is going to replace, and out comes the sledge hammer. Targeting just the oil cooler only, I violently smack at the oil cooler until it breaks off.
The casing for the oil cooler now has a nasty crack and the bolt portion is destroyed. Below you can see the oil cooler in pieces. So finally got the thing off, but at what cost. It's at this I almost give up on this entire project and consider searching for a new engine for this bike...
Yup, I ended up breaking portions of the crankcase. At this point I was pretty soul destroyed and wondering what else could I have done in order to have got that snapped bolt off, although in hindsight I believe an impact wrench would have been the answer and probably would not have sheared the rusty bolt off.
So I go inside, have something to eat, and have a good long hard think about the mess I've made and if there's any way to rectify it. Onto eBay - only to find out I can get a replacement crankcase lower section (it was the lower crankcase portion I had destroyed) for £20! Ordered. Also a replacement oil cooler has been ordered. These aren't new parts but used parts from another bike.
So now I've got a new lower crankcase on the way - it's time to think about what it's going to take to replace this. I fully acknowledge the engine has to be completely and utterly stripped down to every piece in order to do this - so let's begin.
First let's remove the cylinder head...
Camshafts come out...It's worth noting that I will use the caliper and measure the exact wear on the camshafts I have already and the cams that come with my replacement cylinder head.
The cylinder head is off! (below) The cylinder head bolts were on tighter than I expected and required use of the breaker bar for extra leverage. However I wasn't too worried about them snapping off as those bolts are inside the engine and get plenty of oil. It's interesting to get a look at the top of the pistons (and nice to know I've got them at Top Dead Centre).
So now the stator cover has come off, and starter gear has been removed...(below)
But of course it wouldn't be a complete evening if I hadn't yet encountered ANOTHER snapped bolt situation - I wasn't even turning very hard on this it snapped off with my micro wrench. Although the Bonus with this one, is that the snapped off bolt is on the lower crankcase! Bonus - thats going to be replaced anyway so I don't care woohoo!
It's very easy to get out of control with the number of bolts and screws you can have left over. I usually am in the habit of putting bolts back in their holes once I've removed a part so I know where everything is. But in the below picture you can see the Clutch has been removed, starter gear and the bolts for the Oil sump can be seen, Camshaft bolts, valve cover bolts, and clutch cover bolts.
So this is interesting...When removing the oil sump, I've discovered a whole load of mashed up metal bits. Now I was under the impression that normal engine wear produces tiny little iron filings not massive clumped up bits of metal in the sump! Something tells me there is either a destroyed bearing or part that I've yet to discover. Perhaps it's a blessing that I'm stripping down the engine. I also discovered the thermostat at been bent in the open position so the engine would have possibly been running too cool all the time. Must remember that the cylindrical part in the sump is a pressure relief valve (which must be tested), and the oil strainer which must also be cleaned properly.
Now the sump is removed we can get a good look inside the engine from the underside...
So time to call it a night. In following the service manual there are a couple of extra tools I now need. One is a clutch puller so I can get to the fly wheel and remove that. Another tool is a couple of pairs of long nose pliers so I can grip a small washer in the clutch side and pull out the clutch holder.
Overall today has taught me quite a few things. First things first that if I suspect a bolt is rusted inside I'm going to be using the impact wrench on it as the impact force rather than the twisting force of a normal hand wrench makes it far less likely for bolts to be snapped off. It's really interesting to see the inside of the engine, and see the condition of the pistons. There is a black sooty deposit on the pistons which comes off really easily so those pistons look like they will clean up nicely. I must remember to order a whole new gasket set - especially a crankcase and cylinder head gasket - the mating surfaces must be cleaned throughly before assembly. I'm still concerned there is a partly destroyed part inside the engine leaving all those metal clumps in the sump. Next task is to order the tools I need, and do a bit more reading on what to take apart next in order to split the crank case.
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