So after doing some more reading about bearing replacement it appears there are some markings on the end of the crank shaft (shown below) that indicate the diameter of the respective crank pins, and therefore allows me to purchase the appropriate sized bearing, apparently there are colour codes when ordering which represent different diameters. The markings on my crankshaft look pretty difficult to see but I can make them out.
So I go ahead and remove the pistons - from the top of the engine as the manual states. It's quite obvious to see the discolouration of number 2 piston rod.
Below is the upper crank case with the transmission removed, and pistons remove - at another time I will properly give this a clean and get all the sludge and grime out from the inside and then clean and paint the outside. I want to clean any old oil sludge as any new oil I put in there will just get contaminated by old oil sludge.
The pistons will also need those carbon deposits cleaning off so they are looking good again, another task is to examine the piston rings and determine if they should be replaced.
This is what concerns me (below). These are the bottom of the piston rods - the one on the left is the piston that had the destroyed bearing and it's quite obvious to see lots of scouring and damage but what really concerns me is that there is no oil lubrication hole like there is on the one on the right! I can only conclude that the bearing has become welded to the bottom of the piston rod and thus covering up the hole. I did try to stick an appropriate sized tool in the upper park of the hole but it wasn't going through or dislodging any welded bearing. I could drill it out, but maybe a new piston rod is in order. After a bit of reading, this kind of thing can happen if the crank pin bearing is not installed correctly, i.e. the hole in the bearing should line up to the hole in the piston rod and makes sure the crank bearings get lubrication.
In the picture below it's quite easy to see the discolouration of number 2 piston compared to number 3.
So now time to remove the gear selector mechanism that's still in the lower crank case. As this mechanism will need to go into the replacement lower crank case that I have in the house. One thing to note is that there is a pulley looking thing which is spring loaded into the grooves on that cog looking thing with pins sticking out - very important and ensures proper gear selection.
Gear selector forks are below. It's worth noting that they are labelled L C and R for Left, Center and Right and must be installed in their proper locations.
Below is the gear selector drum which in an earlier post I mentioned resembles the inside of an old music box. When you shift through gears you're turning this drum which positions the selector forks in the different locations to move the transmission gears to their right locations to engage the correct gear.
I've brought the transmission inside the house now for proper disassembly and examination of that as a separate piece. Another post to follow. Hopefully the transmission is in good order but maybe not - I noticed when playing around with it there is some wiggle in some of the gears so maybe this indicates a bearing or two needs to be replaced.
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